My bags are packed. Not quite sure if they will weigh under 50 lbs.  Here’s to hoping!  The journey is bittersweet.  Very excited to see my family, but sad to not wake up to go to my favorite cafe, or walking across the Ponte Vecchio every morning. 

I leave Italy today with no regrets, I truly made the most of my journey here.  I did all of the things that I truly wanted to do.  I know I will return again soon so for now, Italia, a presto!

As of right now I have posted blogs up until a couple days ago.  I will continue to post and fill you in on those couple of days once I return to California.  So keep reading!:)

I love you, Firenze!  Be good until I return.  And now, its U.S.A. bound for me!:)

After a very late night on Monday, we woke up very early to go on our last day excursion here in Italy to another set of hilltop Tuscan towns: Assisi and Perugia. 

We began at the station (damn place) at 7:45 a.m. and first made our way over to my little brother Christian’s namesake: Assisi.  Traffic was pretty bad, the first time we really had to deal with a freeway like back home…something I definately do not miss.  In addition, we needed to make a stop at a gas station because one of the girls started getting carsick.  At least it gave Nise and I the chance to grab a pastry for breakfast (filled with Nutella.  yummy). 

After a long three-hour bus ride, we finally made it to the city (at around 11 a.m.).  Assisi, home of St. Francesco, is yet another gorgeous town set along the scenic Toscana hillside, and is truly centered around this Italian saint.  Everyone here, since the time of Francesco’s death, is infatuated with everything to do with their beloved saint.  An interesting side note: St. Francesco’s original name was Giovanni, or John.  He was born to an Italian man and French woman in the town of Assisi.  Because he spoke French, everyone started calling him Francesco, meaning “that French man.” And the name stuck.

Just like Pisa, this city seems to radiate light (probably since most things are made of white marble).  The center of the city boasts a huge church, which is actually three churches piled one on top of the other.  This church is the Basilica of St. Francesco.  St. Francesco died in 1226, and two years later work began on the building of this basilica.  So many people flocked to Assisi to take part in the building of this that the cathedral was completed by 1230.  Ridiculous, especially considering the limited technologies they had at this time. 

Given that this building is thousands of years old, the paintings and frescoes inside were extremely old fashioned, the objects painted being completely two-dimensional, the characters flat on the service and oddly proportioned (longer than usual, less lifelike as a person would appear in a portrait or painting today).  Just as people flock to the cinema today, people from all over the world would come to basilicas like this to gaze in wonder at the paintings.  To them, it was miraculous that people could capture life in such a way. 

The people running the church were very strict about proper conduct in the church, and we were under strict orders to remain silent inside.  The rule of silence was so strongly enforced, that in order to take a tour inside, all guides had to wisper into little microphones while tourists listened through earphones.  Occassionally a loud, deep, monotoned voice boomed on the loudspeaker throughout the church saying “Silencio, shhhhhh!” in five different languages.  Scared me half to death the first time it happened. 

After looking around for a bit, we walked down into the vaults of the church, where we saw the tomb of St. Francis.  We had to look at it from across the room since the vespers (prayer) was going on.  Amusing to see the Franciscan brothers there:) Looked exactly like St. Francis, haircut and all. 

We went upstairs to the second church, some of which had been destroyed in a 1997 earthquake.  Though the fallen frescoes has been restored, some pieces remain lost.  We continued our journey by walking out into the city, and into the stable where St. Francis was born.  Story goes that St. Francis’s mother was having troubles delivering her baby.  A stranger approached her and told her that her child was destined for great things, and that in order to have this baby she needed to deliver it in the stable.  She must have been desperate, for so it was.  It was a very small, modest stable off the main road in Assisi.  There was a smelly sleeping bum in the stable, which made it slightly uncomfortable, but a must-see for sure.

After our tour of Assisi we were all very exhausted.  The tour had lasted a good three hours, and we still had Perugia to visit.  Getting to this city proved slightly trickier than all the others we have seen.  We took a fourty-minute bus ride to the outskirts of the city, and then proceeded onto a little railway car (like Angels Landing in L.A.) to go into the city itself.  By doing this, they prevent a build up of traffic.

Perugia plays capital to the region of Italy called Umbria, and is well-known as a college town and chocolate haven.  Though the sights from the top of the city were beautiful, I must say, I was disappointed in Perugia.  It looked very plain and modern, just like a normal city would.  It didn’t have that special something that all the other places had.  To make matters more annoying, for a town known for its chocolate, Denise and I could only find a couple chocolate shops!  They must have taken us to the wrong part of town, because it was just not what everyone made it out to be.  We walked around, ate some chocolate (that we could find at least) and then headed back to the bus to home.

I can’t believe the “day excursion” section of our journey here in Italy is already over!  In total we have been to 11 different cities throughout many different regions of this amazing country.  It has been a life-changing opportunity to be able to go into these people’s towns and live in their shoes, if only for an hour or so. I will forever hold dear to my heart the Palio races of Siena, the peacefulness of Lucca, the sheer beauty of San Giminiano and so much more.  I am blessed to have been here, and am eager for the day I can return!

No matter where I am in the world, taking the time to enjoy quality time with family and relatives is something I hold close to my heart.  Here in Italy I was reminded of just how much I cherish my wonderful family tree.

On Monday, Denise and I had the opportunity to meet up with relatives of mine here in Firenze.  The Aiellos live here in Europe (in Switzerland, to be exact) and often travel to Italia, where Bob studied in college. 

To make the long story short, I had THE most amazing time!!  Denise and I were able to get a whole new appreciation for Italy, thanks to the Aiellos, and were able to go outside of the realms of the city (which was refreshing).

I met up with Bob and son Antonio at the Ponte Vecchio to begin our festivities (Cindy and Marco were not able to make it, but sent their love). First we went to the Duomo museum, where we were able to see a fantastic Donatello sculpture we have studied about in our art class.  Many other beautiful originals were preserved at this museum and were wonderful to experience. 

We then drove out of Firenze and up to a city called Fiesole, which is on the hilltops overlooking all of Florence.  It’s beautiful.  We walked up to the tippy top where there was a little monestary and gazed down at the Tuscan hillside.  Their was a concert going on nearby, providing the perfect background music:)  Visiting this area was at the top of my list of things I wanted to experience here, and I was thrilled to be able to accomplish it.
 
We then drove around, and explored a castle, overlooking the hillside as well.  I am working on convincing Monica and Nathan to hold their wedding there:)

After driving around a bit, we went to dinner around 8:30 at a place called “Dino.”  Since it wasn’t in the city we got a nice local atmosphere.  Prices were actually reasonable, the place was peaceful and, for once, it was chilly!!!!  The weather was a good 10 degrees cooler….and it felt fantastic.  We all shared food, which included a tasty bottle of Chianti red wine and lots of acqua minerale.  Our delectable meal included items likebruschetta, “naked pasta,” and rabbit!! (among many other items)  The rabbit was fantastic, tasting just like chicken.  In all we had three antipastos, three primi piatti (first course), and two secondi (second course).  sooooo good. 

Despite how large our meal was, there was most definately room for dessert.

  Bob and Antonio took us to Badiani, known for its very own patented gelato.  It was the best gelato I have ever tasted, hands down.  We all got three flavors each.  Mine was the house favorite (a mystery flavor that tastes alot like sweet cream), fondente (dark cocciolatte) and a special caffe flavor that is creamier than usual (whipped with cream and egg yolk).  I basically inhaled it and then looked around to see that I was way ahead of everyone else.  whoops.
 
On our way back to the apartment, they took us by the Piazza de Michelangelo, which gave us a breathtaking view of the city by night.  The Duomo was gorgeous and eery, partially illuminated against the dark sky.  

 
They dropped us off back at the apt. and gave me a gift to remember my trip: a c.d. that Antonio and Marco had specifically picked out for me of a popular Italian singer, Tiziano Ferro.  It was so thoughtful, and unexpected.  It made me incredibly happy. 

This day has helped me to really feel like I have gotten the most out of my trip.  I was able to see some of the things and eat some of the foods that I was worried I wouldn’t be able to before returning home.  They really gave us a great insight and were so generous.  Had an absolute blast, and loved the reminder of how important family is.  
 
I have told Bob and Antonio (and have mentioned to my parents) that the Hartnett clan back home needs to save those pennies and make a trip out here.  There is so much to experience in Europe, and great family to spend time with.  I know I am already thinking ahead to my next trip, where I can visit the Aiellos again and see our relative Ana plus the wonderful Jure in Slovenia.  

Thank you Aiellos for being so wonderful!  Can’t wait to see you again soon:)
 
Going to Assisi and Perugia tomorrow, bright and early!

When one thinks of Italy, many beautiful images come into mind: architecture, historical figures, sculptures, art pieces of all sorts, shapes, and sizes.  In this list, however, one crucial piece of work is left out: the cappuccino. 

Cappuccinos, and coffee in general here, are an absolute masterpiece, foam swirling in ornate patterns on top with just the perfect sprinkle of cocciolate on top.  They are each unique and all to be enjoyed in cup and saucer.  Drinking from a paper or plastic cup (like Starbucks) is an Italian’s worst nightmare.

Coffees range from drip coffee to fancier concoctions.  The classic caffe, for starters, is similiar to America’s espresso shot.  People order them and immediately throw them back.  Then there is the caffe freddo, an espresso shot that is chilled with added sugar.  Americano coffee is added to many of the lists, for tourists sakes, and is just ordinary drip coffee.  Then there is the cappuccino, naturally trumping them all.  They are rich and creamy, and seem to make the day ahead feel so much more manageable.  The italians traditionally drink them before 10:30 a.m., and not after a meal (since  it’s a heavier drink filled with cream).  It is the perfect “pick-me-up” drink.

Denise and I have come to cherish our morning cappuccino ritual.  It doesn’t matter that we have class early in the morning, we will wake up that much earlier just to enjoy this delicious, frothy beverage.  Though we have found numerous places to enjoy our ritual, a place called “”Moyo,” right around the corner from school, has become an almost regular place now.  We sit back and sip our coffee, while trying to read the Italian paper (Leggio).  Its so relaxing and every American should participate in such a ritual. 

And like any place in Italy, if you get to know the people behind the bar well enough, they will do what they can to cut the price back.  We were more than just a little happy to receive a major discount on our drinks and pastry this past morning.  Every euro counts. 

Another aspect of the coffeehouses that I found amusing is the fact that the bartender that makes your coffee….literally is a bartender (you are set for Italy, Nicholas).  Every cafe is also a bar.  So while your bartender might be making you a caffe freddo, he or she might be making the person next to you a rum and coke.  Quite convenient, I guess, if you need a little jolt to get your morning started.

The gourmet, cherished coffee of the Italians is definately something I am going to miss back home in California.  I am going to yearn for ceramic mugs in coffee shops, Italian pastries and deliciously delectable cappuccinos (sorry, Starbucks is most definately not the same).  Somehow I feel coffee will never be the same.

Woke up at 4:45 a.m. by a bright flash of light.  A massive lighting storm had hit town, lighting up the sky and rattling our bedroom windows.  It took me a while to calm down and eventually fall back to sleep.  After breakfast later that morning, we went outside to find the weather nice and cold!  For the first time in Italy!  It was the perfect intro to our daytrip to Murano, to see the glass blowers. 

The ride over to Murano was wonderful.  The water bus was more like a speed boat this time, with room for us to sit at the top and enjoy the ocean breeze.  It was a glorious 40 minute ride, with the breeze whipping my hair and the crisp smell of the ocean.  Once there, Denise and I walked the length of the entire island, stopped in too many shops to count.  We were so swept up in our shopping that we almost lost track of time.  Thank goodness we ran into a couple of our classmates at the waterbus, because we were completely confused on which one to take (we had to be at the hotel by three to catch the train, and only had about an hour and a half to get there). 

We got to St. Marcos and ran around frantically finding Venetian goodies for Denise.  We then once again had troubles figuring out which bus to take back to the hotel.  We had the choice of two: one with a 20 minute route….or one with 45 minutes….and we only had 30 minutes to get there.  By luck of the draw we got the shorter of the two.  We were just a step away from getting on that 45 minute bus. 

As it turns out we had to wait an extra half hour or so at the hotel anyway, because a couple of our classmates were lagging.  Lovely.  Got on the train and, thank God, there was a bar on the train so Nise and I could eat “lunch.”  Two hours on an empty stomach would have made for a very unhappy Beth and Denise.

When we finally got back to Firenze, we made that oh so wonderful journey from the train station to our apartment and got ready for dinner.  We went to a place called Ossterja for dinner.  Had the most fantastic baked lasagne and fresh brushetta.  Finally got to try panna cotta, a favored Italian desert similiar to flan, but much, much better.  Had some with a little bit of nutella.  Heaven. 

On our way back to the apartment, we ran into an older woman from England who was completely lost (was near the Santa Croce and was looking for the Ponte Vecchio).  We offered to walk with her there, since we were just walking around enjoying the city anyway.  Her name was Maria and though she lived in England, she was full-blooded Italian (she moved because of the war).  She was on her own exploring Florence before going down to Naples to visit family.  It was nice to meet a complete stranger and to hear her story.  And always nice to meet a friendly face in a country so far from home.  She gave us a proper Italian kiss on each cheek and we went our separate ways.  God I love that woman. 

So that was the end of our hot, humid, moldy, magical, Venetian vacation.  It was truly an adventure I will never forget.

Denise and I returned Sunday evening from a weekend in Venice, the sparkling city on the water.  Venice truly is exactly the conjured image: a city nestled among the Adriatic sea, loads of boats bustling by, buildings stacked towards the heavens.  However the tranquil, romantic view of Venice isn’t exactly true.  The place is swarming with tourists, only outnumbered by the amount of pigeons.  Venice is so filled with tourists that the locals blame us for the continued sinking of the city (it sinks an inch every 10 years).  In the busiest of times, pictures have been taken of people having to jump over puddles and tiny streams caused by the overflow of water onto the land.  So though I enjoyed Venice, it takes a very determined person to navigate the streets of Venezia and deal with the crazy, tourist lifestyle. 

And so begins our Venetian vacation:

We arrived on Friday evening after a very, very….very long bus ride.  It began at 7:15 a.m. at the train station.  Nise and I were 10 minutes late and we booked it across the city.  Fastest I have ever walked in my life.  I truly am coming to loathe the walk from our apartment to Santa Maria Novella Stazione.  Instead of taking a high-speed rail to Venice, which would get us there in reasonable time, we decided to take a bus and stop in the town of Ravenna on the way. 

Ravenna is officially my least favorite city in Italy.

It’s not the fact that Ravenna isn’t a pretty place.  It is.  It is filled with churches with some of the world’s most renowned mosaics.  However, we had to pay $7.50 euro to actually see them, which was the first thing that annoyed all of us.  Second, the churches are spread out all over this flat, large city and the maps we were given were terrible.  Third, they gave us a whole flipping four hours to do this.  Four hours is way too much time in a city with no drinking fountains on the hottest weekend in Italy.  The most enjoyable thing about this particular excursion was the fact that we were able to rent free bikes and ride around town. 

So after a long 3 hour bus ride to Ravenna and another very hot four hours walking around , we crammed back onto the bus for yet another 2.5 hour ride to Venice.  The air wasn’t working correctly and the bus was a hot, sticky mess.  The closer we got to the water the more humid and miserable the ride became.  I tried to sleep to forget the discomfort, but I would wake up every ten minutes feeling absolutely disgusting.  By the time we got to Venice, it felt like we had been traveling for two days, but I was so happy to finally see that damn city!  Though the waters of Venice are an unappetizing green, I wanted to throw myself in (who cares about the debris and bacteria floating in there already, it’s damn hot). 

We got onto our first water bus and lucky for us we hit the 5 o’clock rush hour.  If I thought the busses in Rome were bad, they have absolutely nothing on the water busses of Venice.  The people running them are bitter, mean people.  The bus itself is crowded full of sticky, smelly people who step on your feet and generally violate your personal space.  It’s your worst nightmare, really. 

Naturally, we caught the wrong boat and had to change onto another sweaty bus to get to “Accademia,” where our hotel was located.  When we walked through the doors of our hotel we were greeted with the sweet crispness of air conditioning.  I have never felt more love for a silly invention.  Had only 30 minutes to take a quick shower before our group dinner, so Nise and I rushed up to our second floor room, which was hilarious.  It is ridiculously Venetian: red, gold and gaudy with lots of velvet drapery.  Our honeymoon suite, if you will.  We even had a huge bed for the both of us.   Very romantic.

Quickly rinsed and went off to brave another bus into St. Marco’s Square for dinner.  Had a fabulous three-course dinner at a restaurant right off the water, with the best tiramisu I have ever had.  My mouth is watering just thinking about it.  After dinner we took a stroll in the square and then headed over to Piazza Margherita for a couple drinks.  Loads of people were milling about, drinking and chatting.  It was a lot of fun, but I was overcome with exhaustion pretty quickly.  We decided to take the streets this time, not wanting to deal with the water bus.  We were able to navigate our way back pretty easily, though I can definitely see how people could get lost here (it’s like a maze, you can’t see over the tall buildings.)  When we got home I took a shower and immediately our room floodedL  Just decided to go to bed and deal with it in the morning.

Saturday

Thank God we set an alarm because the 7:30 a.m. wake-up call we were promised never came to us in “marshland.”  We scrambled to get ready (all while avoiding the puddles in our room and avoiding the mold we had found in a corner).  After breakfast we were moved to a much better room, with a bigger shower and no mold.  Perfecto.

The rest of the day was a whirlwind.   We first hopped on a water bus to take a walking tour of St. Mark’s Square.  By the time that was done, I was already sweaty and uncomfortable.  The humidity was terrible since we were so close to the water.  Our guide was a funny Venetian man, a bit of a sleaze, but funny.  Walked through a bit of the “Rodeo Drive” of Venice, which was interesting.  After the tour, Melissa, Senya (our professor), Denise and I walked through St. Mark’s basilica.  The whole church is done in mosaic with real gold pieces.  Even without lighting, the church sparkles of its own accord.  Truly gorgeous.  We spent some Euros to climb to the top of the church, giving us a nice close-up of the ceiling mosaics and the perfect view of the oceans outside.  Much different than the crowded, sweltering square below.  Up there you could really appreciate the beauty of the island. 

After St. Marks, we grabbed some Paninis and pizza, and sat on a bridge in some shade.  Made all the difference for me.  Then it was back to sightseeing.  We went to the Doge’s palace, the ancient leader of the Venice.  The building itself was very ornate with hundreds of columns and statues.  We cruised through the rooms and displays, including the prisons below.  We even got to cross the bridge of sighs: known as the bridge where prisoners caught their last glimpse of Venice as they were led to there hanging in St. Marco’s Square.  We went back to the hotel, grabbed some water, was brought back to my feet by a rousing speech from Denise, and off to the Guggenheim Museum, home to modern art exhibits.  Though I am not a huge fan of modern art, I really did enjoy some of the pieces there, which included some Pablo PicassoJ 

After the most wonderful nap, we went to an even more fabulous place for dinner.  Our table was right on one of the canals.  We sipped wine and splurged on expensive cuisine: risotto di scampi, a type of rice pasta with shrimp.  I could eat that every day for the rest of my life, it was that good.  We then walked around and got some gelato.  While walking around, we caught word of a fireworks showing taking place that night.  Apparently a festival was being held to celebrate the end of the black plague, which was fascinating given that it tied in perfectly with the history we have been learning in class.  We went out to find a spot to watch the show to find the streets and canals crammed for the occasion.  Party boats were twinkling everywhere.  The show began at 11:30 and it was the most intense firework show I have ever seen.  The fireworks were huge and the noise echoed so loudly off the buildings (naturally, hearing that first boom was enough to remind me to cover my ears).  The buildings and canal sparkled with eah explosion, lighting up with the reflected colors: white, pink, green, blue, red.  Every time I though that the show had completed its finally, another set of explosions took off.  The show ended around midnight, with the Venetian skies raining paper from the fireworks.  It was amazing.

**Part II coming soon!!

Today we explored the beauties of the Tuscan countryside with our daytrip to the hilltop towns of Siena and San Giminano.  Once again, we met bright and early at the train station and traveled by the glorious air-conditioned bussesJ 

First stop was Siena, home to the famous bareback Palio horse races.  Two races take place every year: one in one on July 2, one in late august.  We arrived during the break between the two races, so the town was very peaceful and quiet (except for the tourists roaming about).  The town is nestled atop a bunch of hills, not unlike San Francisco.  Though the streets were steep, our tourguide was nice enough to find us the most shady areas to walk on:) 

The town is the home of St. Catherine de Siena, and we got the chance to see what piece of her is on display in the local church: her head, the skeleton barely concealed behind a thin, clay mask.  We toured the Duomo, St. Katherine’s “home,” and the horse stables. 

One of the really neat things about Siena is the 17 districts of the town.  Each district has its own flag and animal, and colors.  It is each of these districts that compete in the Palio horse races.  These races are intregal to society here.  Federica, our guide, says that grown men cry over the outcome, it is that special to them.  The race itself lasts only a minute and 15 seconds (three laps around the fan-like Piazza del Campo), but those couple moments mean everything to them and their districts.  Federica is a part of the “she-wolf” district.  The winner of the July 2 game is the “Forest,” represented by a Rhino (their colors are green and orange).  Another district is seashell and is represented with a wave and dolphin.  Each area/district in town is adorned with their district flag and flowers representing their colors.  The Forest area was serene with green and orange flags waving and tiny pockets of orange flowers.  I really loved this town, but San Giminano was by far my favorite.

Fourty minutes away, atop a Tuscan hillside, sat San Giminano with absolutely gorgeous views of Tuscany below.  When you think of Tuscany and the lush green pastures, dusty-colored buildings and vineyards….you are imagining the view you get looking down from the wonderful city of San Giminano.  It is amazing.  Equally as serene as Siena with an even more amazing view.  Not to mention, it is home to the so-called “gelato champions.”  It was pretty damn tasty (had a cone with caffe and noccione, which is a hazelnut chocolate just like nutella).  Made my day.  So maybe I have a bit of a bias about this town;)  We walked along the walls of the city, drinking in the sights, absorbing the hot sun (maybe a little too much).  If I had to live in the country, this would be the place.  Nothing can top it.

In Italy, as in much of Europe, football is religion.  Along with the churches and monasteries that line the streets of Florence, vendors with soccer balls and Italian football team jerseys hang proudly on display.  Naturally, I knew that I had to take part in the tradition.  Tonight was the Championship game and all of my roommates and I trekked into town for the festivities.  Despite the fact that the Italian team had disappointed, being defeated early on in the games, tons of people were milling about outside finding a pub to watch the game (tons and tons of fans for the Spanish team).  We went to a local Argentine bar to grab a few drinks and empanadas.  The game was a tense one…a ridiculous amount of yellow cards going out.  The bartender lightened the mood by occasionally blasting a horn.  It took nearly an hour and 20 minutes for anything to happen, but when it did….the place was deafening.  The Spanish team made the goal and every finally breathed a collective sigh of relief.  After the game, there were tons of fans drinking in the streets and parading about, proud in their Orange jerseys.  One of our tour guides had said that Florence was a madhouse when the Italian team one four years ago.  Anyone that owned a truck was driving it through the city, packed with people drinking and cheering.  Half of me wishes that I could have seen it….the other half knows how crazy the drivers are here sober.  We went to a Mexican bar next to celebrate with margaritas.  The perfect ending to our World Cup experience:) 

Taking a part in such a rich tradition here in Italy has helped me to appreciate the Italian culture on an even deeper level.  Beyond the fascinating art, fashion and architecture, sports, just like America, help to add “the glue” to culture and life as we know it.

Sunday, July 11

Currently sitting under an umbrella at a café in the park, right outside the Borghese Museum.  Slight breeze flowing as I write, sip a caffe freddo, and eat a panino con tone e pomodoro (tuna fish with tomato).  We woke up and after breakfast took a bus to the Borghese to see the sculptures “Persopina,” and “Apollo and Daphne.”  I loved the Persopina.  The sculpture shows the god Neptune grabbing the goddess.  She is in midair, within his grasp, pushing to get away from him.  The fear and panic reflected in her face, the tears falling down her marble face are so realistic.  Neptune’s grasp on her thigh is even realistic, the skin puckering despite the fact that it’s stone.  How Bernini makes stone look so plush is beyond me. 

(Later that day….)

We migrated to the Piazza de Poppolo (people’s place).  Despite its namesake, it wasn’t a very welcoming gathering place.  At least there was a fountain there to help us cool offJ  We then went to the Cappuccini Monastery, where thousands of skeletons are kept from 300 years of dead monks:/  The bones were used as decorations in these small crypts beneath the church, making arches crests, even ceiling lamps!  Completely made out of human bones.  They even had full on skeletons in monk robes just hanging out down there (and skeletons that must have been young children).  It was a real life haunted house.  Even smelled funny.  Gross.

                After we had to book it back to the hotel.  Took our first subway here in Italy.  Nothing like that of L.A.  This one was small, dark and unkempt.  Very muggy and gross.  Not too crowded, though, which I was thankful for.  We are now on the train back to Firenze.  Though I love Florence, I wish we could stay the remainder of the time in Rome.  Until next time: Ciao, Roma!  A presto!

Saturday
3:05 p.m. PST, 12:05 a.m. Roman time

My. Feet. Throb. My nose is stuffy and I practically want to throw myself onto my bed from exhaustion.
I love this city.
Rome has so much to offer. Today was yet again a crazy day, even crazier than the previous. It started with a breakfast on the hotel rooftop, overlooking the crowded streets below. Endless cappuccinos and pastries made it even better.
Before heading off we saw our first pack of gypsies. We had been warned by our tour guide about the “wild gypsy women” in Rome (and children) that will attack you and steal your money. Sure enough, as we gathered in front of the hotel to head off a pack of gypsies were waiting across the street. The tour guide had seen them attack a man earlier in the morning. Let me tell you, they were completely different than what I expected. There were three: one slightly younger, one pregnant, and one carrying a baby! I don’t know what I expected exactly, but definitely not that. One lesson learned: don’t judge a book by its cover. I would have never thought to watch out for them. They eventually left and we were free to move forward, toward our first destination: the Colloseum.
Needless to say, the Colloseum is absolutely HUGE. It has 80 entrances spanning across the bottom and could be filled to capacity within 15 minutes. Imagine a stampede in that place….Home to gladiators, sea battle reenactments, exotic animals, and bloodshed. Lots and lots of bloodshed. As much as this place fascinated me, I also found it extraordinarily disturbing. To imagine crowds of jeering onlookers, with the stench of blood so excruciatingly thick that they had to light pinecones for incense to cover the smells. And the crowd would just eat it up and find new ways to kill people, reenacting stories like “Ikirus,” forcing a man to fall to his death. Disgusting. All in all, though, I did learn a lot (and find it completely hypocritical that actors were banned from the Colloseum even though people gathered there for theatrical purposes).
On to the Roman Forum, which was discovered buried beneath a cow pasture! To think, the political center of Rome buried beneath a bunch of cows. Walked all around the Forum, including to the grave of Julius Caesar. At this point are feet were killing, but there was no time to waste. It was time to rush on to the Vatican.
Vatican City is massive! To put it in perspective, it has its own radio station, currency, stamps, etc. We stopped for food first, which was ridiculous. Just like Disneyland, but less tasty. I paid seven euro for a bowl of orzo. We scarfed down the food and set off for the Vatican Museum. Though there was lots of great artwork, it was so damn hot in there, people smelled terrible and there were hardly any windows. By the time we got to the Sistine Chapel, I nearly had a panic attack. I wish I was kidding. The room was crowded with people, no windows and only two doors. St. Peter’s Basilica, however, made things a lot better. It’s gorgeous and spacious, the largest church in the world. And I wouldn’t doubt it for a moment. The beautiful, vast white marble sweeps on for what seems like miles with alcoves, sculptures, altars, mosaics filling up the church. The objects themselves are tremendous in size as well. In one mosaic, a pen that St. Mark is holding is nine feet tall, though from far away it looks just normal sized.
I loved the Vatican. I had to see it, but it was an exhausting experience. As Angela our guide said, “It’s not that ‘I saw the Vatican,’ it’s that I survived ‘the Vatican.’” True that. They don’t call it a Mecca for nothing. Amen.
Once again it was time to dash back to the hotel and to our group dinner….and the bus was AWFUL. Packed like sardines, sweat pouring off of you, trying to hold your breath. I had to just close my eyes and pretend I didn’t feel like a claustrophobic mess. At least dinner was worth it It was fabulous, with bottled water and lots of wine included. It all started with matriciana, a Roman specialty with bacon and “tube pasta.” Next was some sort of puffy bread, like naan, but crispier. Right after was pork in delicious “lemony” gravy. And the meal continues! We had a fresh salad with carrot and tomatoes and a bunch of desserts for us to all sample: flan, lemon tart, and chocolate cake. It was a true Italian meal, an extravagant affair. After dinner we planned to go to a club called “Bloom,” supposedly held in a 15th century palace. However, when we got there it had been closed down. Instead we opted for Piazza Novana, which is where I really wanted to go anyway because of the summer nightlife. The piazza is filled with artists, dancers, performers and vendors. Lots of people gathering to enjoy the summer air near the beautiful fountain.
There was a church nearby, so Nise and I decided to scope it out. It just so happened that there was a concert going on inside, the Calgary Girls choir was performing. It was beautiful to hear them sing, with the church perfectly picking up their voices and ricocheting them towards the audience. Really glad that we discovered the performance.
We slowly meandered back, stopping to put our feet in a nearby fountain on the way. Felt so good to pamper our feet a bit. Been a long couple of days, but I am content.